The Doorbell Dough: Warm Cheese Puffs for the Guest Who Is Already Here
There is a particular silence that falls when the doorbell rings forty minutes early and you are still holding a wooden spoon. Gougères fill it better than crisps, better than an apology, and better than pretending you were just about to change. Here is the make-ahead dough, the cheese permutations worth bothering with, and the modest theatre of a warm bowl.